ORCHIDS

Micro orchid Leptotes bicolor

With almost 30,000 different species of orchids, there is a lot to be said for them. Add to this the amount of growers globally who are crossbreeding species to create new flowers, and it seems you could easily spend a lifetime just getting to know this plant family. And the truth is- you probably could! But you don’t need to in order to successfully grow and enjoy orchids as part of your collection. Many plant enthusiasts tell us that orchids are difficult to grow- we believe this is not the case, and the reason for the misconception can be chalked up to a simple misunderstanding. Let us explain-

CARE

At a basic level, most common orchids can be grown under the same general guidelines. First we must understand what makes orchids so unique, and why they cannot be grown as you would other houseplants.

The main distinction that separates orchids from other common houseplants is where they grow. Most orchids are actually epiphytes- plants that grow on other plants. They do not grow in the ground as most plants do- instead, these plants are found growing on tree limbs or bark. The vast majority of orchids in the trade grow on tree branches under the protective shade of the forest canopy, in climates where it rains often if not daily.

Note: Although the common genera of orchids commercially available are epiphytes (Cattleya, Oncidium, Phalaenopsis, etc.), it is important to research your specific species. Orchids can also be lithophytes- plants that grow on stones- or terrestrial- rooting into soil. All but one of North Carolina’s native orchids are actually terrestrial.

Example of an epiphytic orchid- growing in the absence of soil, it is instead mounted to a block of wood.

To adapt to this unique growing environment, orchids have evolved special roots to absorb moisture and cling to branches or stones. When you look at orchid roots, you will notice they are thick and almost spongy- this is the velamen layer. The velamen serves as a storage system, soaking up water and nutrients from the air or the trees bark. It also serves to protect the inner root from the sun’s damaging UV light, as the roots are not protected by soil like other plants.

SOIL & WATERING

This velamen layer is the same reason why you cannot grow orchids in standard potting soil. The velamen surrounding the roots will stay saturated for too long in normal soil. The prolonged contact with saturated media, combined with inadequate airflow, will suffocate the roots- causing them to turn brown and rot away. To combat this, most orchids are grown by mounting them to slabs of cork bark, or potted in baskets with very coarse pine bark, perlite, and/or sphagnum moss. These mediums replicate how they would grow naturally. Summed up- all of this means orchid roots need to BREATHE for them to grow happily. Orchids love plenty of water and plenty of air to thrive.

Healthy orchid roots will appear white with green growing tips when dry, and pale green when wet. Shades of brown or black are indicators the roots are dead, most likely root rot as a result of overwatering. Generally, it is best to wait until the roots dry and turn white before watering again. Frequency of watering depends if your orchid is grown mounted or potted- there is no ‘golden rule’ on watering frequency for any plant. Adhering to the root color principle explained above will give you the best success.

Healthy orchid roots- note the white roots with green growing tips

FERTILIZING

Orchids are typically fertilized with a diluted water soluble fertilizer more frequently than other plants. At full strength the roots can easily be burned. Most orchid growers follow the “weakly, weekly” rule- 1/3 to 1/2 strength fertilizer, watered in once a week for a steady supply of nutrients. Any well balanced, water soluble fertilizer from the hardware store (Miraclegro) is fine.

Ensuring your orchid is consistently well fertilized is imperative to get the best flowering frequency, in addition to optimum quality and quantity of the blooms

LIGHT

Light requirements are highly species dependent. Generally, orchids are understory plants- so bright, indirect light will suit them well. The best way to know if your orchid is getting enough light is to observe the leaves. If an orchid is not growing much, with yellowing or wrinkling leaves- it may not be receiving the light it needs. On the other hand, if the leaves exhibit slight red or purple ‘blushing’ on the edges, it is a sign of good bordering excess light. This is true for most all plants: red-purple blushing is the plant producing protective pigments to combat damage from excess sunlight.

HUMIDITY

Because the majority of orchids come from tropical rain forests, they will benefit from being grown in higher humidity. For the home orchid grower, this can be accomplished by misting the foliage daily, investing in a humidifier, or setting the pot in a shallow tray of pebbles filled with water. Always ensure too that the orchid is not placed in drafty locations, like near air vents.

SUMMARY

The key to orchids is being mindful of where they grow in the wild, and then replicating a similar environment for them. Our philosophy is giving them as much water, and as much air as possible. This translates to very well draining soil, and frequent watering during the growing season. Compliment this with the weekly, weakly fertilizer schedule and they will thrive for you.